More Cutless.

Tags

Bearing, Caulk, Cutless

The new shaft is in, the engine is in, and it’s time to install the new cutless bearing. First we disconnected the shaft from the transmission and slid it two feet or so aft.
We coated the shaft as far as we could reach with glycerin, then slid it a foot back inside the boat, being very careful to not touch the clean fiberglass/epoxy tube the bearing had to fit into. We ran a thick bead of 5200 (edit: should have used a less permanent 4200, BoatLife, or Sika-something) polyurethane caulk/glue around the leading edge of the bearing, and started it into the shaft tube.  We added more 5200 around the bearing as we pushed it into the boat, maintaining a rotating ring that stuck to the brass and coated the bearing as it entered the tube.  The sealant will both center the bearing in the shaft tube and help keep it in place.
A few taps with the two-pound sledge and the bearing was in.  I’d say the fit was about right – tight but smooth.  We could hear the bearing seat on the last tap.  It rang like a bell.

Once the 5200 has set up, we’ll clean up the drips and use a little filler to build up the surface to something nice looking.  Then we’ll use a drill and put a small conical hole (not thru) in the bearing sides (where the small hole are just forward of the aft end of the keel).  We’ll install pointy set screws into the holes, fixing the bearing in place until the next owner feels like working on it.

A trip to the Dentist.

Tags

Caulk, Leaks, Sealant, Window Leaks

I had a temporary crown installed yesterday.

I’m fine.  Thanks for asking.

So when we found leaks in our window frames it only made sense to reach for the Dremel tool.  Closest thing we’ve got to a de-tootherizer.

The vinyl window frames shrank in the harsh Bay Area sunshine, opening the welds first and then cracks in the corners.

A little time with the high-speed cutter opened and cleaned the crack.

Then we masked off the area and smeared in BoatLife polysulfide caulk.  Perhaps a polyurethane would have been a better choice.  Hard to say.

The interesting thing about this caulk is it takes almost a week to cure. Same as my tooth.  Permanent crown next Thursday.  Hopefully we’ll install our engine on the next day.  Stay tuned.

Bedded with Butyl.

Tags

Butyl, Cal 2-46, Caulk, Deck Leaks, Fasteners, Holes, Leaks, Stanchions

Here’s how we re-bed stanchions on this boat.

First we find Butyl tape.  Not at the marine store.  Perhaps we should take the hint.  But butyl tape is found at the RV store.

Butyl is uncured rubber, I think.  It stays sticky and rubbery forever.  Perhaps forever-ish.

So first we pull the stanchion fasteners and clean the incredible mess we find underneath.

Nancy is wearing a funny hat because she was painting and doesn’t like getting white paint in her not-yet-grey hair.  Personally I think she looks great either way.

Once we get the area clean we countersink the fastener holes.  Clean is a relative term.

Then we cover the area with slabs of butyl tape and replace the stanchion base.  We wrap a little material under the fastener head, then push the fasteners through the tape into the holes.

Snugging the fasteners squeezes most of the butyl out of the fay gap (an aerospace term meaning the between part), but leaves little loops of butyl in the countersink spaces around each fasteners, filling the threads and sealing the deck.

We finish by scoring a line around the stanchion and peeling the goo off the deck.  If we don’t smear it it comes off pretty easy.

Actually it keeps oozing for a few more hours.  No biggie, just clean it again.  It’s like that soft blue gooey eraser stuff.

We stole this from here:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects